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As standard, the cycle is not fitted to Pure fortwos. You will need the following parts:

  • Cycle Valve
  • Long red/black high pressure pipe
  • Short black vacuum pipe
  • Vacuum pipe clips

To fit one, you will need to remove the rear panel and crash bar

The TIK is secured to the top of the gearbox with two E10 bolts, one of which secures the engine earth strap as well. Undo both screws and you will feel a bit more play in the TIK.

The TIK is secured to the airbox by another jubilee clip. Loosen this as well.

Pull the TIK off the turbo first. As you do so, unclip the black switching valve from the metal plate as shown below. There is also a short black/blue vacuum pipe that links the TIK to the wastegate actuator. I would suggest that you try to free this from the actuator end. The TIK will now be free to remove.

With the TIK out of the way, you will find it easier to access the wastegate actuator. On the picture below, you can see that the middle vacuum port is blocked off with a rubber cap. You will be connecting one of the cycle valve ports to this so remove the cap. (Note, the port on the right is where the black/blue pipe to the TIK was connected).

Unscrew the metal plate on the back of the TIK with an E8 bit.

Now take your cycle valve and attach the new pipes as indicated below. The high pressure pipe should be secured with a clip as you don't want this pipe coming off. Depending on the clips you use, it might be easier to connect up the pipes first and attached the cycle valve to the TIK later on. In this case, we have attached everything ready to refit in one go.

Going back to the turbo, you will notice a high pressure pipe from the compressor housing connecting back to the wastegate actuator. The Pure operates a very crude form of boost control. As the pressure builds up in the turbo, it will overcome the force holding the wastegate shut. As the wastegate opens, the pressure drops and the wastegate closes. If you want some boost control and adjustment, fitting a cycle valve will definitely help!

Remove the pipe from the turbo housing.

In this case, we replaced the pipe as the existing one was starting to look perished. If you do replace it, ensure that you have clips on either end.

Take you cycle valve assembly and connect the short black vacuum pipe to the wastegate actuator - it should slide on easily. Take the red/black pipe from the wastegate actuator and connect it to the cycle valve. This is where you might find it easier to connect the cycle valve without the TIK attached. If you have done this, you now need to attach the cycle valve and mounting plate back to the TIK.

Fit the turbo back to the car starting with the airbox end.

Connect the long red/black pipe to the turbo compressor housing. It is slightly obscurred in the following image but is indicated by the turbo arrow.

Carefully fit the TIK back to the turbo ensuring that the seal does not get trapped or crumpled (easier said than done!). When you have done this, don't forget to connect the black/blue vacuum pipe back to the wastegate actuator.

The last job is to provide the cycle valve with power. Open the engine lid and you will see a spare connector just infront of the inlet manifold. In order to free this, lift the cable cover indicated by the arrow. The connector should slide out easily when the cover is hinged open. Feed the wiring down to the cycle valve and plug in place.

Check that everything has been reconnected correctly before refitting the back panel and crash bar.

Initially you will notice an improvement in turbo boost delivery, especially during gear changes. However, to gain full benefit, an ECU remap will be required.

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