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LEDs

To remove the buttons section, first remove the radio using the removal clips. If you don't have these to hand, use alternative radio removal clips.

If you have an aftermarket radio, you can get around this by pulling the frame off around the buttons. This is a bit fiddly which is why ideally, it is easier to remove the radio first as you can get to the retaining clips.

The button frame is held in place at the sides by clips which need to be pushed in order to release.

You can now unplug all the connectors ensuring you note which ones are connected to which button.

Once disconnected, the buttons simply push out of the frame.

To access the PCB, turn the button over and dismantle it by levering it where shown.

Take the PCB and begin your LED changes.

When the lighting circuit was designed for the pods, they used amber and red LED's which have a 1volt drop accross them.

When changing the colour this must be taken into account. Many people have tried to replace the LED's and failed due there not being enough voltage to drive the circuit.

In this How2 we will be using blue LED's which have a 3volt drop accross them.

Starting with the boost gauge, remove all LED's from the PCB by gently heating the tabs at the base of the LEDs. If you want to keep a red needle, then leave LED 4 in place.

Using a small length of tinned wire, uninsulated, short out pads numbered 1,2,6,and 8.

Solder 3,4,5,and 7 as they were originally. I find it easiest to tin the contacts of the new LED, and tin the pads, then position the LED and gently apply the iron. If you switch sides quickly enough, the solder will remain soft and the LED will settle into place and make a good contact.

When soldering 3 into place, feather some narrow gauge wire and sandwich between the pad and the LED, this is where we will take our feed for the remaining diodes.

Turn the new LED for 8 over, and solder the cables from 3, ensuring that they attach with the same polarity, we want the remaining LED's to be wired in parallel so that the voltage remains high enough to power them effectively.

From 8, go to 1, from 1 to 2, and finally from 2 to 6

During the testing phase I used a small ball of blu tak to hold the LEDs in place on the circuit board, once complete I replaced this with some padded double sided tape.

I chose that sequence of wiring because between 3 and six o'clock there is plenty of space for the extra parallel wires. Be careful not to foul the needle area with the new wiring.

When complete your boost gauge should look similar to the pic above, re-assemble and go and test it in the car, you do not need to plug the temperature gauge in, or secure the pod to the base for testing.

If all connections are made well then all LED's will light and your finished gauge should look something like this:

You may want to experiment with positioning the LEDs to get the best end result.

The temperature gauge is much more simple to do.

Again, de-solder the LEDs from the PCB, leaving LED 2 if you want to keep a red needle. DO NOT de-solder LED 6, this is the redline illumination.

Short pads 1 and 5, and feather in some wire between pad 4 and the LED. Then parallel from 4 to 5 and from 5 to 1.

If we were to stop there, the redline illumination would 'leak' into your new colour, so we need to mask the area off.

Take the black card and cut a strip, leave a tab that can be folded at 90 degrees to the strip for securing to the back of the dial face, secure with some double sided tape.

If all connections are made well then all LED's will light and your finished gauge should look something like this:

Again, you may want to experiment with positioning the LEDs to get the best end result.

Click on the pictures below to make larger. LED orientation is shown with a triangle pointing to the cut-out on the negative side of the LED. Observe correct polarity when soldering.

Window Buttons:

Boot Release:

Soft Top Control (selected models only):

Auto-headlights and front fog lights (selected models only):

ESP Off:

To remove the buttons section, you first need to remove the accessories below the buttons. See here for some useful information.

Pull the button section free and remove the grey front bezel.

You can now unplug all the connectors ensuring you note which ones are connected to which button. Once disconnected, the buttons simply push out of the frame.

To access the PCB, turn the button over and dismantle it by levering it where shown.

Take the PCB and begin your LED changes.

Before replacing the LEDs, the safety triangle needs to be dismantled. Lever the front of the triangle from the centre console in order to free it and unplug the wiring on the back.

The triangle is held together with four T8 Torx bits. Undo these and keep them in a safe place.

Separate the back plate, PCB and front plate.

Take the PCB and begin your LED changes. At the same time as this, you may choose to upgrade the switch backlight.

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